Whenever I cross the Dutch-Belgian border from my current home in Brussels to my native country or back again, I receive a text message on one of my two phones. ‘Welcome abroad.’ Suddenly, the other phone has reception again. In this way, I’m always half at home and half abroad.
In Brussels, I’m one of many who are half at home. Signs on the metro read, ‘Suffering from homesickness? Call…’ If you happen to commute between an old, labyrinthine working-class area —where the gloomy, wood-lined pubs are filled with men playing chess from ten in the morning — and the giant glass missiles in the city centre, you’re sure to believe in quantum theory: past and present occur simultaneously, distance and time are relative.
That’s how it feels to be in The Hague. You’ve got the station district, where the trains and trams shoot along over and under the administrative towers, the sensible version of a futuristic city. And a bit further on you’ll find the reassuring brick façades, the fish stall, and ducks on the canals. To cross the border between these two worlds, you barely have to travel at all: you only feel a small shock, like a bump in the road.
When I arrive far too early at the hotel, the young man behind the counter warns me, “If you check in now, you’ll get a room with a bath.” Taken aback, I reply that I’ll come back later then, wondering why a bath would be a cause for concern. Maybe due to withdrawal symptoms once you get back home?
A skinny man approaches me on the street, asking for money. He’s shaking and comes far too close. “Sorry, I don’t have any,” I try. “I’ll go with you to the cash point then,” he says, his eyes open wide. That cash point is the magical gateway to another world, and I have the code word. He curses when I don’t want to go with him. I leave him behind on the square.
One of the attractions of a festival is the sense of belonging to a group. No bumps in the road: you’re surrounded by like-minded souls. In the evening, the other Chroniclers, translators and authors, greet me with a discussion about the translation of the Dutch word ‘gezellig’. We quickly establish:
1) That it describes a group activity.
One by one, the others come down. On the way to the festival opening party, and later on in the restaurant, changeable groups form according to language: I sit in the German corner, speak French or Dutch, and if in doubt revert to an English no man’s land.
2) That everyone is at ease with each other.
“So how did you two meet?”
“I need more wine first!”
“You’ve had enough. Spill the beans.”
3) That ‘gezellig’ isn’t structured; that you lose track of time.
“Your columns have to be in by 12:15.”
“I thought it was 12:30!”
“…”
“But I need that quarter of an hour.”
“Sleep well.”
4) That anticipation is very ‘gezellig.’
In my hotel room I look at the festival programme. I throw my stuff across the room willy-nilly, open up my notebook in the middle of all the mess, and feel at home.